The procedure for removing the presser bar from a donor side clamping machine is basically the same as for the back clamping version, so I’ll just show the steps for the back clamping machine. My presser bar was a bit rusty on the ends, but after soaking it in Evapo-Rust and polishing it with metal polish it looked pretty good. I use the locking pliers as a last resort, though, because no matter how much I try to protect the knob from damage, I usually end up scraping it up.

On my rusty parts machine, in order to remove the foot pressure knob, I had to wrap the knob with a strip of leather, then grip it with locking pliers. If left on the machine, it will eventually dry to a film that will glue the parts together. I don’t like to get WD-40 near my sewing machines, but if you choose to use it, make sure to clean it off thoroughly before putting the machine back together.

If you have any problems with stuck parts, apply some penetrating oil (such as kerosene or Liquid Wrench) and let it sit for a bit, then heat the area up with a hair dryer, which does wonders to soften up hardened oil. The conversion process is pretty simple, but you might run into problems due to old hardened oil and rust.

Just make sure you get one with a side clamping presser foot. I got mine on the shopgoodwill auction site. You can find these on ebay sometimes, but I found it was cheaper to just get a whole parts machine for myself. You’ll need a side clamping presser bar from a Singer 66 parts machine. I found text directions for the conversion on the Treadle On site, but I couldn’t find any pictures of the process, so I’m writing up a tutorial on how I did it.

Singer red eye 66 sewing machine